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Technical Support

Welcome to the Electricbikecity.com technical support page. The goal of this page is to provide you with solutions to known technical issues.

Brands:

X-treme Scooters

Do you suspect you have a defective battery?

If you suspect that your X-Treme battery is defective you need to send proof that it is indeed defective. X-Treme asks for proof that the battery is defective. This is a part of their warranty process. The proof they accept is a picture of the voltmeter reading or a receipt from a Batteries Plus showing the battery as defective. Once they receive proof that the battery is indeed defective they will issue what’s called an RSL or return shipping label for the defective battery. Once you ship out the defective battery back to their warehouse they will ship out a brand new battery to you.

Are you wondering what the part below is for?

Derailleur guard

This is a derailleur guard. In order to install it you need to find the derailleur on the rear wheel. Next you will find the screws for it already attached to the bike. Next, unscrew the screws and attach the derailleur guard. It protects the derailleur in a case of an accidental fall. 

Baja Folding Bike

- To see if the battery has power. There is a small black button next to the L.E.D. lights on the battery you have to press. If all five lights illuminate then the battery is fully charged.

Trail Maker, Trail Climber, and X-Cursion troubleshooting guide:

The most common issue is the hub motor connector (quick disconnect)on the lower right rear of the frame does not have a secure connection.

Battery voltage:
The battery voltage should be about 28vdc.
If you have no battery voltage check the fuse inside the battery case.
For the xb310 the fuse will be on the bottom of the battery case.

To access the controller area:

Check for damaged or faulty connections.
Xb300
Remove the four screws that retain the aluminum cover on the left lower part of the frame near the bottom bracket.

Xb310
Remove the screws that retain the plastic battery dock cover.

Brake switch test:
Unplug the connector with the double red and the double blue wires and re try throttle.
If the wheel engages then the brake switch is faulty.

Throttle Voltage Test:
Follow throttle wires until you find it’s white connector. You will be testing the “Red”, “White”, and “Black” wires. Set your meter to test DC volts. Block rear wheel off the ground so scooter won’t take off. Turn the scooter on. Place the red meter test lead on the “Red” wire and the meter black lead on the “Black” wire. The meter should measure +5 volts. Now place the meter red lead on the “White” wire. With out turning the throttle you should read around +.8 volts. Now turn the throttle wide open. You should now read around +4 volts. If everything else powers up on the scooter and you do not have +5 volts between the “Red” and “Black” wire the controller is bad. If you did not get the +.8 to +4 volts then the throttle is bad.

Testing the Motor Sensors:

First, let's sort out the motor's wiring. There is eight wires total, or leads, running from the motor to the controller. Three larger wires power the motor and are larger (16 AWG): Green, Blue, and Yellow. Two wires power the sensors and are smaller: Red and Black. And three wires connect the sensors to the controller: Green, Blue, and Yellow. All 5 small wires are connected to one white quick disconnect. For this project, we are concerned only with the smaller wires of Green, Yellow and Blue.

Now, there are two methods I've used to determine a bad connection or which of the three sensors have failed. By the way, both require the motor to be fully assembled, so put the wrench away!

The first is to simply run the motor while one sensor lead is disconnected, “refer to section-A below on how to do this”, then again for the second lead, and a third time for the last lead. If one sensor is dead (and that's your only problem), you'll see that disconnecting one or the other of the good sensors prevents the motor from turning altogether, while disconnecting the bad one has no effect at all--it still sputters.

If that didn't work, try this second method. It is more complex, but useful to identify a bad controller rather than the motor, and more nuanced issues or problems stemming from multiple failures.

Remove the 3 small wires from the 5 wire connector leaving the red and black wire attached.

While the motor is connected to the controller, powered, and at rest--or, alternatively, powered with +5 volts from a workbench power supply--set up a multimeter to monitor the sensor's output on one of the 3 wires. Connect the BlackVoltmeter Lead to the small black wire by inserting the probe in where the wire goes into the connector. Attach the RedVoltmeter to one of the 3 wires to be tested. IMPORTANT: do NOT let any of the small wires touch each other or will blow the sensor. Turn the motor by hand very slowly while watch the voltmeter. It should pulse to 5vdc when active and 0vdc when not. Repeat this step for other 2 wires. If all three wires Green, Blue and Yellow pulses 5vdc then the motor is good and controller is bad.

Section-A: Do not have scooter powered up. Locate the white quick 5 wire connecter leading from the controller to the motor and unplug connector. With a small ice pick or large needle inserted to unlock the lock tab one of the good pins. And pull the wire out of the controller and reconnect the connector. Tape off the gold pin to protect it. Return to above instructions above.

Thank you,

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